Cornwall on the coast of England has long been on my travel bucket list. This summer my husband and I were finally able to take a two week trip to the United Kingdom and the county of Cornwall was our first stop. We’ve traveled to the UK often, but this was our first time visiting the coast.
Cornwall is known for its rugged coastline, picturesque villages and rich history. Summer is the most popular time to visit. People enjoy the weather, stunning views, fresh seafood and walks along the coastal pathways. For our home base, I chose was the charming village of Port Isaac. It’s a small place and I hoped it would be less crowded than the larger cities of Falmouth or St Ives. If you’re a fellow fan of British television, you’ll recognize it as the setting for the popular show Doc Martin. It’s on the southwestern coast of England, about 225 miles from the London Heathrow Airport, a mostly highway 4-1/2 hour drive.
Day 1: Arriving in Port Isaac
We landed at Heathrow about 1 in the afternoon on Virgin Atlantic direct flight from Tampa, Florida. We picked up our rental car at the airport and set out.
By the time we arrived in Port Isaac it was getting late. We quickly found our AirBnB, took in our bags and headed out for dinner on foot. Everything in Port Isaac is within walking distance if you stay in town. I learned my lesson the hard way on previous European trips and this time pre-booked for dinner before we left the states.
Luckily I was able to make a reservation online for one of the places recommended by our host- The Golden Lion. It was a cozy pub in a very old building with amazing food and a beautiful view of the harbor. I was sorry we weren’t there on a night with live music but happy to have a comfy spot to finally rest and enjoy a real meal. My husband was dubious and played it safe with fish & chips. I was rewarded for my more adventurous choice with an amazing seafood linguine. I’m not sure what all was in it- but it was fresh and delicious and I ate every bite.
Side note… people in Cornwall love their Malbec and Shiraz. If you want red wine by the glass- those are your choices. You can get cabernet- but you’ll need to order a whole bottle. I don’t like beer and there’s only so many G&Ts I can drink in a week, so wine is my go to.
After dinner we strolled around the village a little to get our bearings and walk off our meal. It was well past nine at this point and I was surprised that it was still light outside. In summer the sun rises around 5:30 in the morning and doesn’t set until about 9:30 at night. By the time we walked up the steep hill back to our cottage, the jet lag had set in and we were more than ready to call it a day.
Day 2: Port Isaac
Port Isaac, our home base, is even prettier than the pictures. Nestled between steep cliffs, the village is famous for its narrow, winding streets, picturesque white washed cottages and sweeping views of the dark blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean. The weather was wonderfully mild, with temperatures comfortably in the 60s and 70s (°F)- a welcomed break from the stifling Florida heat at home.
On our first morning, we walked to the local grocery store for provisions and made breakfast in our tiny but well outfitted kitchen. We then spent the day wandering through the village, looking in the few shops and climbing the stairs up to the cliff top to view the sea. Our favorite part of the day was sitting outside a little cafe called The Mont on the edge of the harbor and watching the people go by. As a popular summer vacation spot for the English, the town was teeming with families, their dogs in tow and their children running in and out of the water, dodging around the moored fishing boats. Surprisingly we seemed to be the only Americans in sight.
By the time we finished our late lunch, the jet lag was setting in again and we opted for some rest time before dinner. Gone are the days when we powered thru, intent on filling every precious moment of our travel days with activities. Now we realize a little rest along the way makes for a much more pleasurable trip over all.
Rested, we started the evening with a short walk to The Old School Hotel for drinks. Known for being the school in the popular Doc Martin show, it has a very cozy little bar with some couches where you can relax with a cocktail, play cards or even just read. And like everywhere else- dogs are welcomed. We followed drinks with dinner at The Black Wine Bar & Cafe. It was another amazing seafood menu and we enjoyed everything. It’s tiny, so reservations are necessary. Even though we started rather late (8:45), our waiter encouraged us to take our time and linger over our dessert and wine.Our first full day in Cornwall was pretty perfect.
Day 3: Tintagel
I had read the day before that the Tintagel Castle ruins were a must see for the area so I bought tickets online and we headed out in the morning. Only a 9 mile drive, it took about 25 minutes to get to Tintagel. The roads are very narrow. We had to “give way” and pull over many times to let oncoming cars squeeze by. It was a bit nerve racking and I was sure my husband was going to bash the car into the high hedges that hugged both sides of the roads.
When we arrived in Tintagel, I was a bit disappointed. The village was overflowing with tourists. The main street was mostly shops and restaurants with over the top King Arthur and Camelot themes. Not the kind of thing I enjoy. But my husband said we were already there so we should check it out. We found a spot in the very crowded parking lot among dozens of RVs and tour buses and made our way to the entrance to the castle. I should warn you, it’s a pretty long walk from the village to the castle. Mostly downhill on the way there, but uphill on the way back. And after climbing up and down the cliffs- that last walk back to the car was a killer.
Despite the hike to get there- it was worth it. Tintagel Castle, what’s left of it, is perched on a cliff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. It’s famously linked to the legend of King Arthur. All that’s left are the ruins of this medieval fortress, but it’s the panoramic views that will take your breath away. If you’re able to handle the rocky terrain- the views are amazing. King Arthur’s statue is all the way at the top of the cliff.
It’s a beautiful spot and perfect for a rest and snack if you thought to bring one. Merlin’s Cave, another famous spot, is all the way down at the shore beneath the cafe at the end of the walk. Be sure to visit the little museum by the cafe too. It gives a nice history of the castle and the legend of King Arthur.
That evening we splurged for dinner at a new restaurant from Michelin star chef Nathan Outlaw. Outlaw’s New Road has a set 10-course seafood tasting menu for dinner. The restaurant is on a hill with a lovely view of the ocean and excellent service. I ended up trying many things I had never had before (raw scallops, spelt, turbot) and everything was very good. But I can’t say it was worth the steep price. The portions were tiny and the whole experience was a bit boring. There were only a few tables and no music. We felt we had to speak softly and just wait for our next course. The whole evening felt rushed, we were in and out within ninety minutes. Sadly I wouldn’t recommend this one- but there are plenty of other options near by for a special meal.
Our Last Day: Port Gaverne
We were set to leave for the Cotswolds this day, but my husband needed some work time before we started out. So we drove over to this even smaller village right next to Port Isaac. We could have walked but it was downhill on the way there and uphill the way back. Frankly my legs were begging for mercy by this point. The harbor in Port Gaverne is small but peaceful, with dark flat rocks on the beach and steep cliffs on either side. The offerings are few here- a pub, a small hotel and one excellent restaurant- Pilchard’s. We enjoyed a long lunch at an outside table while my husband worked and I people watched. There were senior couples heading out for their daily swim, kids with dogs and paddle boards and adventure groups suited up in wetsuits and helmets headed out for cliff and cave exploring. If you’re an adventurer, you’d probably enjoy one of this company’s excursions- www.cornishrocktors.com.
As I sat there taking in the sea views, I knew I would be coming back. I could never tire of looking at these cliffs and the sea. And there are so many more places to see in Cornwall- Falmouth, St Ives, Newquay, Padstow- just to name a few! Seems no matter how many trips I take, my bucket list just keeps getting longer.
A few tips for traveling to Cornwall:
- Getting to Cornwall: The fastest option is to fly to London and rent a car. You can drive directly to Cornwall via the M5 motorway from London, which leads to the A30, the main road into the county. Alternatively, if you prefer public transport, you can take a train from London Paddington to Penzance or Truro and enjoy views of the English countryside a long the way. You can fly into Cornwall at Newquay from several major UK cities. If the village you want to visit does not have an airport or train station- you can rent a car or take a local bus to reach your final destinatio
- Accommodations: In smaller villages, Airbnbs are going to be the most plentiful. Also there could be small hotels, inns and many pubs have rooms too. Larger cities willhave hotel chains. It’s hard to park in the smaller villages, so staying somewhere that includes parking but is also walkable is ideal.
- Weather: Cornwall’s weather can change quickly, so bring light layers and a waterproof windbreaker. Even in summer, you can go from hot to cold in the space of a couple of hours.
- Walking: The region is renowned for its coastal pathways. Make time for scenic walks and bring comfortable, sturdy shoes.
- Seasonal Crowds: Summer (June to August) is the peak tourist season, which means busy attractions and higher prices. For a quieter experience, visit in the shoulder seasons (spring or autumn).
- Narrow Roads: Many roads in Cornwall are narrow (one lane) and winding. Be cautious when driving, especially if you’re not used to rural roads. Parking can also be challenging in popular areas. If you’re renting a car, choose a smaller option with an automatic transmission.
- Public Transport: While a car is the most efficient way to get around Cornwall (when not walking), there are bus and train services connecting major towns and attractions. If you plan to use public transport, check schedules in advance and consider travel passes for convenience.
I hope you’ll visit Cornwall soon and let me know what you loved! If you’d like to see more pictures & videos from our latest trip, check out my reels on my Instagram- click the link on the right.